October 5, 2005

October 5, 2005

The next morning we are supposed to see some of the tombs of the Ming emperors but all we see is an area called the Sacred Way. It is a long walkway that connects the thirteen tombs. It is lined with 18 pairs of stone soldiers and animals that are supposed to symbolize royal power.

In the afternoon we drive to the closest section of the Great Wall at JuYongGuan Pass, another World Heritage Site. Here the Wall protected a strategic river valley connecting Beijing and the barbarians to the North. This is where the Mongol invader Genghis Khan breached the Great Wall on his conquest of China. There is a large fortress-like structure crossing the river with walls extending up both sides of the valley. We walk along the wall to the west. The Great Wall, at least here, should be better referred to as the Great Stairs. Since the wall goes up a very steep mountainside, there are almost no flat sections. This is going to be a workout. Every few hundred yards up hill we run into a guard tower. The harsh terrain and high walls seem impenetrable to invaders, but we need to remember that these strengthened fortifications are from the later 15^th century Ming Dynasty. The Great Wall was less formidable in 1211 when Genghis Khan attacked. Even then he had to use subterfuge to lure the defenders away from the wall fortifications.

The crowd thins out the farther up we climb. We are the only non-Chinese at this point. No other white person I guess is nuts enough to climb this far up. The Chinese are doing the ascent in suits and long pants. They haven’t learned about leisurewear and shorts. We have a couple good laughs with them when we say “E-R-Sun” (1-2-3 in Mandarin) before each photo.

Eventually after a strenuous hike we get to a spot where the wall branches and there is another section going back down. I guess this pass was so important and close to Beijing that they felt they needed a double wall. Hoping it connects close to our starting point, we hike carefully back down the stairs. The stairs are so steep it is almost more difficult going down. Fortunately this area has been reconstructed and the stones are in good shape and not loose. It is amazing to think this wall extends for four thousand miles across China. That is like having a wall in the US all the way across the country. After we make it back down to the fort, I convince Aimee to climb up and down the eastern side too. We could use the exercise. The view from the top is not as good as it could be as there is a haze in the air. Because China hasn’t emphasized pollution control yet, smog covers the entire country. Back again at the valley fort, we relax while visiting the many vendors crowded around the parking lot.

Since we are in Beijing our group has Peking Duck for dinner tonight. It is good but mostly about eating fatty, crispy skin.